MikeyTheMINI sends package

Today I received a nice package from MikeyTheMINI who runs NewMINIstuff in England.
For GBMINI#3 I decided to stay with a Kenwood aftermarket stereo so I could still use my Keg, but I wanted to avoid having to install another IR remote to link the steering wheel controls to the head unit.
Instead, by ordering a European head unit through Mike, I could also use a wired interface … so today I received the new head unit & everything needed to install it into GBMINI#3:

I ordered the Kenwood W8531 from Mike – I wanted at least a two line display which crossed off some off the lower spec models. Mike included the fascia adaptor, antenna adaptor, and a wiring adaptor including the MFSW->Stereo converter for steering wheel control.

Now I just have to find the time (and courage) to disassemble the new MINI!

Harmon Kardon Information

There has been another burst of discussion in the various forums recently about the Harmon/Harman(!) Kardon upgrade to the MINI. My MINI is unusual (but no longer unique since I made some HKenabler circuits for MikeyTheMINI in England) – I have upgraded the head unit but still have the HK amp and speakers.

The HK upgrade offers a number of benefits over the stock MINI sound system. There is more power and better speakers, and also various “modes” (MINI H/K, SPATIAL, ELECTRONIC, FESTIVAL, INSTRUMENTAL) that electronically process the sound and “customize” it to the MINI interior. I have found the system to have incredible clarity – cleaner than aftermarket systems I have heard.

The HK system has *eight* speakers, two more than the stock setup, but there are still only the six installed positions – in the top position in each door there is a tiny tweeter positioned in front of a midrange speaker. Additionally, the rear 6×9 speakers have “dual voice coils” which allows twice the power delivery from the HK amp, without the need for voltage boosting. Here’s a pile of pictures:


(UPDATE: the MINI convertible has different rear speakers)

People regularly ask what is the best set-up for the HK system – the answer of course is whatever you prefer! But this famous online discussion can be of some help in figuring out what to adjust and why. There is also a detailed review on MINI2.

Of special note is the fact that if you turn bass or treble above the flat/center setting, you will limit the maximum available volume – the HK system is configured to protect its speakers at the expense of lower overall volume!
Another interesting Harmon Kardon discussion is here, by tacotim who appears to work with developing car audio systems so has opinions worth noting!

There is a regular issue discussed with the Harmon Kardon system – a buzz or vibration from the passenger side of the car. My MINI had this issue and I attacked both doors with sticky felt to solve it. Now a MINI friend, Josh, has done the same thing and posted a how-to on his website. Another how-to is posted on the NAM forum.
This vibration appears to be a common HK issue and is easy to resolve if you are brave enough to remove the door panels (you could also try to get your MINI dealership to resolve it).

Another regular issue discussed is the speed compensation. Non-HK MINIs have a “SPEEDVOL” setting in the head unit menus which can adjust the amount of speed-related volume increase. The Harmon Kardon system does have speed compensation but it is a fixed algorithm in the amp and is not adjustable. It appears to compensate just enough so that with the windows closed, there is no need to turn up the volume at highway speeds but you don’t notice the compensation either!
So some people claim that there is no compensation (from my experiments with different stereo setups, I know that the HK amp does compensate for speed). Another confusion is that the stereo manuals still describe the “SPEEDVOL” adjustment although it is disabled in HK equipped MINIs (except, confusingly, a few early MINIs still had the adjustment in the menus but it had no effect!)
The speed compensation does not take account of interior noise levels (rumours of a noise-pickup microphone are wrong) so the speed compensation will not be effective when the windows are open …

It took me a long time to enjoy the Harmon Kardon system – my preference is for sound to come from in front and behind me, so the default “MINI H/K” mode (which is front sound-staged) did not suit me. I normally use the SPATIAL or FESTIVAL modes now (although FESTIVAL makes speaking voices very echo-ey).
My aftermarket head unit appears to sound better than the original stock unit – probably due to the better “loudness” compensation. But if you are seriously into car audio systems you probably should get the base stereo and replace all of it – amp, speakers, head unit, being sure to use a very competent stereo install company (not Tweeter!)
The best advice is always – listen to the MINI stereo before you order your car. Take some of your favourite CDs and play them. Is the sound clear and crisp? Is there enough volume? Too much or not enough bass or treble?

The very best MINI stereo I have ever heard is an aftermarket system in Jaysons car – but the cost of that system is much more than the HK upgrade, and it significantly impacts space in the trunk.

Aftermarket head unit control from MFSW

Finally, after more than a year of having a Kenwood head unit installed in GBMINI, I got round to installing the PAC SWI-X which I had bought through MikeyTheMini long before GBMINI was built!
The PAC SWI-X receives the steering wheel audio control messages and converts them to infra red transmission, mimicing the remote control that comes with the aftermarket head unit. During installation you “teach” it the correct codes by pressing steering wheel buttons then pressing remote control buttons repeatedly.

The PAC SWI-X is not difficult to install, but you have to access wires in the steering column (see this thread on MINI2). I removed the trim above and below the steering wheel (which also requires removal of the rev counter), and then had easy access to the wires. I cut the “white with red stripe and yellow dots” wire which carries the MFSW signals, and put bullet connectors on both cut ends – that way I can easily restore orginal function if I need to.
I put another bullet connector on the yellow SWI-X wire and connected it to the steering wheel side of the MFSW signal wire.
I also found a switched 12V and 0V at the same connector and spliced into them to power the SWI-X (easier for me than picking them up behind the head unit).

Next I programmed the PAC SWI-X, following the MINI2 instructions from DavBret. The first time I programmed the “mode”, it missed one press so went into mode 4 – but that is easy to diagnose because the SWI-X flashes only 4 times. Be sure to get this right, because changing the “mode” loses all the other programming and forces you to start again.
Now I programmed the steering wheel buttons to send the correct codes (learned from the Kenwood remote). You have to concentrate here! If you wait more than a few seconds the SWI-X times out, and you cannot continue programming – you are forced to start again.
Also, the first time I did it the steering wheel volume up/down only did one step for each press – no auto repeat. I found that you have to press and hold the steering wheel volume buttons for a couple of seconds so that the SWI-X learns to repeat the IR signal.

Next I temporarily put the PAC SWI-X on the euro shelf, and taped the IR LED above the head unit, on the trim piece around the speedometer. I tested the position for a few days to make sure it controlled the head unit properly in all weathers.
When all seemed well, I permanently installed the SWI-X by taping it to the back of the euro shelf, then I removed the center trim piece and drilled a hole in it to mount the IR LED. I routed the LED through the bodywork from behind the euro shelf up to behind the trim piece.
After a lot of careful drilling I successfully mounted the IR LED in its bezel in the center trim piece, over and pointing down onto the head unit.


Initially the controls no longer worked – I should have drilled further round the curve of the trim piece so that the LED was pointing lower. I found that the bezel around the IR LED was blocking the signal to the head unit, so my colleague carefully modified the bezel with a file, to remove some of its lower edge.
Now everything works fine and on the anthracite trim you do not really notice the LED; it is wonderful to finally have my steering wheel controls working again!